Varietal Grenache, Syrah, Viognier
Region Rhone Valley, France
Thibaud Capellaro is one of the most talked about rising stars of the Northern Rhone. He supplements the small production of estate wines with negoce fruit, only sourcing organic grapes from some of the finest growers in the area, including Gerald Oustric of Le Mazel and Clusel Roch.
A collaboration between Thibaud and Etienne Seignovert, another Northern Rhone young talent. Co-ferment of Syrah, Grenache and Viognier, whole bunches and direct press. It was blended prior to bottling with a small amount of Gamay which had one weak carbonic maceration. Their first release of this cuvee was in 2021, with production being a little over one thousand bottles each year.
Red fruit forward, bright and inviting. Rhubarb, red skins, blackcurrant leaf and soft herbs. Light and detailed, fine tannins dance, the palate is long and joyous. A wine with a playful edge.
Varietal Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
Region Bordeaux, France
Corinne and Jean Michel Comme are located in the Bordeaux appellation of Sainte-Foye, on the eastern edge of the region next to Barsac. CDT Blanc is a blend of equal parts Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, the fruit is slowly pressed and raised in concrete and tank.
Refined and elegant, generous yet restrained, it is the sum of its parts. Stone fruit, white florals, and hay. If you’re a fan of Mount Mary Triolet, one of Australia’s iconic wines, you will love this wine.
Varietal Gruner Veltliner, Muller Thurgau, Welschriesling
Region Moravia, Czech
Truly Moravian and unapologetically Nestarec, Bel is made with “common” local varieties, mainly Gruner Veltliner supported by Muller Thurgau and Welschriesling. Historically they always used to be blended together for an everyday wine. Mialn’s idea here is to have a wine that you can drink with literally everyone, be they natural wine fans or haters.
Green apple, citrus, apple skin crunch. Zip, straw / hay, crushed seashells. Some citrus pith also. Mineral, fresh and dangerously drinkable white wine.
Varietal Book
Region Jura, France
Valentin's book, Another Wine - How to Think About the Vineyard in the Face of the Ecological Crisis has now been translated into English.
Niche works of this sort will never find a wide audience. If Another Wine still feels worth sharing with the Anglophone world, it’s because I can think of no other contemporary work in English that deals honestly and bluntly with the hard work of being a peasant vigneron. It is to Morel’s immense credit that he refrains, throughout the book, from indulging in any wine sales blah-blah. There are almost no tasting notes, no extended odes to his own terroir. Instead, Morel memorably illustrates the motivations for - and the implications of - his decisions to farm organically, to vinify naturally, and to plant hybrid grape varieties.
AARON AYSCOUGH; NOT DRINKING POISON - AUG 14, 2026