I am very fortunate to work with the producers I do, they are all incredibly dedicated and passionate, producing wines of beauty from impeccable farming practices. But there are a few whom have that little ‘je ne sais quoi’, and Cedric Garreau is one of them. A micro vigneron who flies under the radar, he works alone and makes some of the most beautiful and energising wines in the Loire.
Cedric grew up in Loire, his father working for some of the bigger cellars of the region. In 2006 he undertook a two year viticulture course, followed by time travelling, as far south as New Zealand where he undertook agriculture work. He returned home to Loire and established Garo’Vin in 2010.
He initially purchased 2 hectares of vines in Beaulieu-sur-Layon, Anjou. Over the years he has added a few more parcels and now farms 3.5 hectares, Cedric feels this is enough for one person.
Under vine he has Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau and Chenin blanc, spread across 4 plots. All worked in organics, the vines range from 6 years through to 90 years of age, planted on soils composed mainly of schist.
This isn’t a cellar filled with fancy equipment, he purchases second hand traditional equipment from his neighbours as they upgrade. His work in the cellar is precise, ceasing sulphur use completely in 2017, where previously he had added at bottling stage for the reds only.
In 2018, Cedric made the decision to cease seeking AOC appellation for his signature red wine, Anjou Rouge. This was a struggle for Cedric, he is very proud of his work and being a part of the region. But with the rigidity of the system, it was a decision he felt was necessary. The cuvee is now called Metisse, and will include a portion of Cabernet Sauvignon.
These are exceptionally well made wines, with bright fruit and freshness, displaying inherent beauty. An under-rated wonder of the Loire, a secret that will not last long.
—
Mike Bennie (Winefront, December 2020)
Garo’Vin Lunatic 2018
“Strong mandarin and Meyer lemon scents, sweet citrus, a touch of ginger and lemongrass. More ginger and lemongrass to taste, almost ‘spicy’ in a way, and with amazing ribbons of chalky tannins. Squirts through the finish with mandarin juice and light savoury, nuttiness. Complex, incredible texture, serious white wine of depth and interest. Great, avant garde producer here”
The Wines
SomnamBulles Blanc 2017
100% Chenin blanc, hand-disgorged. Annual production of approximately 1000 bottles.
SomnamBulles Rose 2017
50% Grolleau (from young vines) 50% Cabernet Franc (from 35-year-old vines). Hand disgorged, with an annual production of approximately 1000 bottles.
Lunatic 2018
100% Chenin blanc from one parcel, 35-year-old vines on pink schist soils. 2018 was a unique vintage as it yielded more grapes than previous years. As such, this vintage has 35% de-stemmed Chenin blanc that was macerated for 10 days, the remainder being whole bunch, direct-pressed. Majority of the macerated Chenin spent elevage in tank, the remainder 20% new oak, 20% 4-year-old and 60% old barrels.
Lulu Berlue 2017
100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 week carbonic maceration, 6 months ageing in stainless steel.
Metisse 2018
60% Cabernet Franc 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit was de-stemmed and macerated for three weeks, the varieties kept separate until blending prior to bottling. 10 months elevage in both old and 2-year-old barrels.
Anjou Rouge 2017
100% Cabernet Franc. 3 week maceration of de-stemmed fruit, aged 1 year in old barrels.
Anjou Village 2015
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a single half hectare plot of old vines on clay sand schist soils. This is only produced as a single varietal bottling in the best years. De-stemmed, 4 weeks maceration, 12 months ageing in old barrels.