In July 2017, I journeyed to Moravia in the Czech Republic to visit Milan Nestarec despite knowing that he had chosen another importer to work with here in Australia. It didn't matter to me, I was fascinated by what he was doing and captivated by his wines which I had been drinking in Europe. 
Fast forward a couple of years and Milan contacted me to see if it was something still of interest as the relationship with his previous importer wasn't working. We remained talking and together have waited for this moment to reintroduce these cult Czech wines back into the Australian market. 

Moravia is a historical region in central Europe that served as the centre of the kingdom of Bohemia in the 11th century. In the 20th century it became part of the modern state of Czechoslovakia and subsequently of the Czech Republic.

At the beginning of 1949 however, the Czechoslovakian government dissolved Moravia into a number of smaller administrative units. And then in 1960 another administrative reorganisation created the South Moravian and North Moravian regions.

The Nestarec’s are in the village of Velke Bilovice, located in the southern part of Moravia, 15km north of the Austrian border. A region rich in agriculture, Moravia is noted for its viticulture, with 94% of the Czech Republic's vineyards here it is the centre of the countries wine region.

The Czech Republic has a complex and traumatic history, it was under communist rule until the Velvet Revolution began on November 17, 1989. Milan’s father, Milan Nestarec senior fell into grape growing. He had been working in a German vine nursery, but when communism fell the state returned land to the Nestarec family that was stolen by the Bolsheviks in 1948. A vineyard had been planted on this land during that time, and this was to become the Nestaerec’s first vineyard, Zadni. Bit by bit Milan senior bought a few more small vineyards, amassing 8 hectares. This is still a family operation, with Milan’s parents and sister Lenka all working in the business.  

Milan took over the winemaking in 2008, but it was to take until 2015 that Milan’s style was to become noticed and this family business could grow. Milan’s global reach also set in motion a change in Moravia and Central Europe, this 33 year old inspiring others in the region.

Nestarec now have 30 hectares under vine, spread across 13 sites. The soils are pure loess, sand, clay and some chernozem. Loess is a yellow dirt, the most typical soil in Bilovice. A superfine sand, its dark mustard colour comes from its high iron content. These soils often have limestone clusters in them, an aerated soil that gives wines with acid structure and direction.
Chernozem is a black colored soil containing a high percentage of humus, a fertile soil with high moisture storage capacity.

Under vine they have a wide selection of varieties Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Müller Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat, Cabernet Franc, Pálava (Muller Thurgau x Roter Traminer), Cabernet Sauvignon, Dornfelder, Regent, Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch, Neuburger and Welschriesling

Since 2009 the vineyards have been worked in organic farming, and some biodynamic practices are used, but Milan is not dogmatic here. His focus is on a healthy eco system and understanding the needs of each individual site.

A curious thinker, Milan isn’t afraid to experiment and try new things. He recognises that the wines at the beginning of his journey are very different to those he makes now. As an early 20 year old he liked to push the boundaries, and in Milan’s words “I followed the equation: the weirder = the better”

Now he makes wines in the way he likes, the style that suits the fruit and the vineyard. Wines he wants to drink. Ultimately, the wine must speak for itself

No fining, no filtration, no added sulfur, with one exception, a wine not in this release.

From 2018 on the White Label wines have become field blends from older vines grown in a single vineyard or two neighbouring plots. Milan has also chosen to pair back maceration with a maximum 10% only (if at all) macerated fruit. These are wines that offer much joy now, but will be glorious with age also.

“My theme is energy in wine. It's all about energy. If energy is missing somewhere, it's boring.”